Cementerio department of mysteries

Somehow I was motivated to get up early. The museums closed at 2, so off I went, anxious to take advantage of a somewhat rare day with few obligations, to use the time when I was lucky enough to be free of homework for a bit. After a speedy metro ride I found my way to the Mueso de Historia Natural. The first thing I can say about this museum is that it has a baby born with two heads. For real, a two-headed human baby born in 1915, now preserved in formaldehyde for all the world to see. After staring at that for a while, equally in awe, and repulsion, I moved on to various interesting exhibits, mostly things related to the ocean. There was an Andean Condor, and I was frightened. The things are massive, even the old taxidermed shrunken one; I have no idea how they can fly. They must have the world's most impressive pectoral muscles. I enjoyed the mastodon tooth, which was about the size of both of my hands put together, only a bit bigger. It may be small and have somewhat older exhibits, but this was a museum well worth the visit for me.

I searched some time in cerro concepción for a museum that I was told no longer exists, and then found that the Lutheran church was still open. It is gorgeous on the interior, spacious with huge wood beams exposed on the ceiling. I met the assistant to the pastor, I can't remember what that title is actually called. His name is Jonathan, and he hails from Cuba, in his fifth year in Chile. We talked for some time about Valpo's only Lutheran church. Wow I run into such cool people. I intend on returning for a service here, Sundays at 11, lucky me for how late it is.

In cerro panteon I checked out the Cementerio Disidentes, or cementerio N°2. There are many ways to describe this place, surreal for one. There is something about a cemetery on top of a hill in South America that allures me for some unknown reason; it is sort of legendary in a way, the image I have in my head of some remoteness and historical aspect about them, I can't explain it. This cemetery was sort of a maze, a labyrinth of passageways, not walkways, passageways, in between colossal monuments filled with 10, 20, or 50 resting souls. It was very Harry Potter, with a magical aspect and walls like the Third Task maze, like a castle with terraces and layers, and finally, with a hallway straight from the Department of Mysteries. It also had a pretty bangin view of Valpo's cerros. I loved that place.

After marveling at the awesome monuments and terraces and towers I walked the entire way around the cemetery in what my map calls simply 'Paseo al lado del cementerio,' though no points are given for creativity there, I like it anyway. This walkway also has a sweet view. I descended via Calle Ecuador through Plazuela Ecuador, which is sort of a mini plaza but as an extension alongside the street, where I apparently looked very gringa, because I was harassed a lot in this area. Sometimes pretending not to understand anything gets you through easier.

I made my way back to the Museo Cielo Abierto to find the street that I had missed earlier. I found out later that I missed it again. Ah well, it was still fun to explore the graffiti streets and secret stairs (by day, I promise.) Back through escaleras rudolf (named stairs?) and through the plan, in places familiar, Parque Italia, Plaza O'Higgens, except this time I walked through and not alongside, watching the people, families with playing kids, novios, other people looking tired and confused, I observed creepily.

My host mom's friends were playing cards at our house again when I got back. I love having once I love when they are there. They are always so interested in hearing about my life in the US. The one guy is hard to understand, but each time is a little bit easier, slowly but surely. I decided that I was not tired enough to call it a day, so I pulled out my map and my restless legs called me to a short walk to Agua Santa, where there was a mirador that would surely be a good destination for sunset observation. Well a short walk it was not; almost an hour later, out of breath from climbing and teetering on the edge of cliff and busy road I made it, not 5 minutes before the puesta del sol. I had a grand view of the whole of central Viña in orangish low lighting, and the ocean, the sun setting behind Valpo's far buildings, and in the middle, recreo. The plaza stood out noticeably (hmm I need to reduce my redundancy here... do I speak this redundantly all the time?) And next to the 60 or so palm trees in the plaza my building. Far away, as the sun was setting. Hmm, time to go back. I made it a good distance in the twilight. I was on high alert though, and when I heard someone running behind me, I jumped to action, but it was only another extranjero, running to catch up to his friend in front of me. He apologized, embarrassed at scaring me. But I was ready for action, if that makes you feel any better. I would venture to guess that it probably doesn't.

Sundays are relaxing evenings, to spend time with Dani drinking ridiculous amounts of tea and watching the show animales and others more familiar, Sex and the City and House, in Spanish of course. Now that I am over the lack of synchronization (insynchronization is not a word, is it?) and the change in voice of the actors, I prefer the Spanish version, though I definitely do not catch it all. Right now I would rate myself at about 75% understanding. Slowly it gets easier, slowly.