Friday, July 31, 2009

ascensores


So I was waiting for the micro this morning when this man camp up to me asking for the time. Upon hearing me speak, he immediately reverted to English, but I stopped it. He asked where in the US I was from, and I said, apparently unclearly, PA. He definitely heard "Transylvania" and started talking about Dracula. I admit that I was entertained, so I nodded and let him keep going. This actually happened to me later in the day again, a similar event, and I think it is super funny.

After finally sorting through the class scheduling confusion at Casa Central, I met up with Thomas again for a small lunch and a trip to buy our Chilean identification cards at the Registro Civil in Valparaíso. We waited there almost two hours... I pulled number 91, and it was only 0n 40... but all the same it was super fun, especially if he knew a word in German but not Spanish or English. I love the German accent coupled with Chilean Spanish. Anyway, it turns out that neither of us had the correct paperwork (I needed my actual passport, not a photocopy) and we have to go back again anyway to buy our IDs. So we decided to ride an ascensor! Ascensores are these cool things that are like funicular elevators, but are much older than those. They basically eliminate the need to walk up about 200 steps, and are really really fun. At the top of Ascensor Reina Victoria, we has a sweet view of Valpo and met the really nice conductor guy. Upon hearing the German accent, he excitedly pointed out the Lutheran church close by, and we chatted it up for a while. And there was a slide, descending from the platform! This we utilized of course. After a trip exploring the surrounding streets, we parted ways, and I followed the palms of Avenida Brazil back to the university. Walking around the city and exploring the crazy steep streets and haphazard colorful buildings is my new favorite activity. On one street today, we saw two TVs stacked vertically, painted with the words "apaga la tele, vive tu vida." Turn of the tv, live your life. There is a lot one can take away from this place, and I have just scratched the surface, I think.

Thursday, July 30, 2009

Tarjeta por el metro

Two trips into Viña today, on with Javi for some excellent ice cream, flavored Mil Hojas and Frescado (raspberry), and a trip on foot to buy a metro card. A metro card is like a prepaid phone card; every time you enter and exit the metro, you swipe it and it deducts from your prepaid pesos. The process to get the discount student one is simple, but the people in the metro office made it complicated. I had to talk through one of those ticket things, and it was nearly impossible to make out anything. Eventually I made it to the office, and it was so funny. The first man sort of freaked out when I talked to him, and tried to find someone who spoke English. I understood quite a bit of what he said, but he handed me off to someone else anyway. The next guy was really nice and used lots of hand gestures to make sure I knew what he was talking about. Satisfied that I somehow got the card and had made a scene while doing it, I had some time before dark to get to know Viña. It is busy and interesting, and I much want to explore every inch of it. I came across a market on a sidestreet and found postcards, finally. When I showed them to my host mom, she took one and circled our apartment building on it, among hundreds of other buildings. Now everyone can see exactly where I live, apparently.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Connections: both the people and the transportation kind

Today began with a tour of the university buildings throughout Viña, then of Valpo. There is not one large campus, but many tiny ones spread throughout the two cities. The oceanography building is literally on top of the ocean. Upon seeing some unfamiliar birds there, I asked around and later found that Garret was familiar with them. As it turns out, he has the same Birds of Chile book that I do, and he mentioned the author by his first name. I excitedly explained that some family friends (the Moultons) who travel the world in search of birds, had this guy, Alvaro, as their guide in Chile. An interesting connection. Then I found another one- as it turns out, Trena of group Q was tutored by Javi for part of the summer. Javi exchanged with Millersville last semester and was my Spanish practice buddy. I also met Thomas, a German exchange student, on the bus. Almost forgot, our group name has become "Garret y los flores..." No se.

Later we explored the beaches and market in Vina. We saw cool sand figures that were actually colored and maintained. I found the cutest thing in the world, an adorable Chilean boy holding a bunny. I talked to him and he gave the bunny to his sister, who chatted with me and permitted a bunny petting. The father was nice too- they were super friendly/adorable. Everyone has been this way, very open and friendly, willing to talk to you.

When I returned to my house from Viña central, I ended up taking a regular taxi, which is not as good because it is more expensive, because I could not find the right micro or colectivo. The driver at one point asked me where to go, and I told him that I had no idea. 20 minutes and 5 or six direction stops later, I arrived safely at Plaza Recreo. That's right, my driver was lost.

On micros and colectivos... I figured it out. It's like they are attached to an electrical track. That is my reasoning for how they are able to make turns at warp speed and power up and down hills, ducking and weaving, without smashing into anything. Let me tell you, anyone who can drive through that is an amazing, and very confident, driver.

After a somehow successful trip to buy a card for my prepaid phone and uber late lunch, I passed time at the house and eventually made my way to Cafe Journal. The coletivos are safe to use for night travel, which makes life easier (don't worry mom). Our group joined up there, and I ran into Thomas again. We chatted and made sure that each of us had a safe ride back to our houses before parting. Downtown Viña at night with friends is both safe and fun, an experience which will likely become regular.

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Orientation

Orientation week at PUCV is similar to that at any other college, except harder to understand and more interesting. We have orientation groups and leaders (monitors). My Monitor is Caroline, who was an exchange student at MU last semester. It was exciting to see a familiar Chilean face on Monday when this all started (Alina too). Of the 280 exchange students, 180 are from the US. Much of this week is spent picking out appropriate classes and learning about how Valparaiso works- especially safety. I saw graffiti that said "El Karma... y mi bolso?" (bolso= purse or bag). Perhaps inspired by an actual theft. It made me wonder how safe it is to walk around alone, being gringa. I at no point have felt very unsafe, except for the shady steps of the Micro mishap. Good news on the Micros- if I stay on the 504 for two more stops, I end up at the stop right next to my house.

In between getting passport photos and doing paperwork for our visas, I walked around Valpo with other group Q members, Garret, Laura, and Jen. We found a street that had cars parked on the sidewalk, and the sidewalk was steps... it was that steep. I also tried a Mil Hojas pastry thing at a panderia. Through the confusion and incorrect grammar, everyone seems to get the idea of what I am talking about or asking for, and I can therefore be sort of independent, which is really a good feeling. I must rethink my crossing the street strategy though, drivers here are a little on the crazy side.

The best part of today was successfully discussing with my host mom, Carmen, the story of my camp bunny, Inca Toll. This rabbit was named after a trail at camp, which was named after the concept of Inca roads. In order to go on the road, you must pay a toll of adding a stone to the road. The name also matches Chile because the Incas used to live here, not in Valpo, but in the Andes closeby. So camp ties in to Chile. An apt name for my travel bunny. More importantly, the communication component was there. Sort of. Carmen also enjoys when I talk about my volcano dreams and act out an eruption with hand gestures and noises because I don't know the words. She says I can visit a dormant one. It better be very dormant.

Monday, July 27, 2009

adventuras de los micros

Micros are the busses that run everywhere. Today, I took one for the first time. Earlier, I had navigated using a colectivo (taxi) and was rather proud of my new skill. I found the right micro, but could not figure out where to get off. I ended up past the neighborhood where I live, in who knows were, some part of Viña. So I thought, well I will just walk back. After 20 minutes in a shady part of town, where people went out of their way to talk to me, which freaked me out more than anything, I found two motorcycle police. They graciously directed me to plaza recreo, but more importantly, they were able to understand what I said to them. The route in which I was directed turned down an uber steep hill, which quickly turned into a scary decent of doom. The sun had set by this point. I could see plaza recreo in the distance, so I continued on the shady street and up a weird staircase with a million steps and a huge vertical incline. Near dark, I made it back to my house. Part of being lost is really fun, but the other part is being afraid of who might be nearby.

Sunday, July 26, 2009

the bathroom story

Today was my first taste of Valparaíso. It is beautiful- hilly, with buildings of a million different colors, and plazas with palm trees. Carmen, my Chilean mother, took me around the city for a while. I bought more warm clothes- it is winter here, and although most of what I packed is sweaters, it is not enough. I also took a walk today at the Plaza Recreo and down to the ocean. There are stairs on the sidewalks of some streets, like San Francisco.

To the bathroom story- of yesterday, actually. The bathroom door at my house sticks from expanding from moisture or whatever. So I closed it when I went it there and couldn't get out. I had to be rescued. Twice. Yes, I did it again. I actually locked myself in a bathroom. Well, I thought it was sort of funny.

Saturday, July 25, 2009

Mayita and I finally made it onto a plane bound for Santiago. I tried unsuccessfully to watch 3 movies while on board, but just continued to fall asleep and wake up confused. At 10:30, I was able to see the snowcapped peaks surrounding Santiago, and had my first real strong push of nerves. Mayita walked me through the airport process, and we parted ways after customs, hopefully to meet again. Good thing she was there through the entire 35 hour flight process. After leaving the smog bowl that was Santiago, I was taken to my chilean family in Vina, 50 hours after leaving home. Carmen ran out to greet me, and her and Daniella welcomed me into their nice apartment. I have a view of the city from my room- though an uphill view, still beautiful all the same. Dani took me to downtown Viña on a super cheap taxi, part of an amazing public transport system. After buying some supplies at what is possibly the world's largest supermarket, and the largest mall I have ever seen, we headed back to Recreo. There is a beautiful park/plaza right across the street from our house. I watched the sun set over the Pacific from the street right there. Then we ate this great meal of all things breadlike- delicioso. My Spanish is very shaky, not due to the chilean accent or speed, but the modismos, idioms. I was all excited over knowing the word for cake, for instance, but it turns out the Chileans use a different word anyway. Another exchange student, from Denmark, was hanging out with Dani, and her Spanish (and English) is very good, so I hold on to hope for now. More exploring soon.

Friday, July 24, 2009

stranded

By 2:00 Thursday afternoon I waved by last goodbyes and settled in for a shuttle ride to Philly, after the frantic packing chaos had finally ended. Two other passengers, a guy by the name of Dane, and his mother, chatted with me about running and teaching and living in Arizona We ran into each other at least 5 more times at the airport while waiting for our delayed flights. I also met a couple from Toronto (the lady was also a teacher) who loved my bunny and thought I was hilarious for whatever reason. After stuffing myself with more greasy American food (the day's total consisting of McDonald's and a Philly cheese steak), I met Mayita, who had exactly the same itinerary as me. Turns out she is a coordinator for teachers in Puerto Varas, Chile. She flies to Santiago periodically to work with the English program in schools there. How exciting- the perfect person to meet! Hopefully I will get a chance to visit one of her schools. After boarding the plane to Toronto, we hear the captain tell us that there are 30 planes ahead of us waiting to take off. 30!! Upon arrival, we find that we have missed our connecting flight, the only one to Santiago for 24 hours. Great. After waiting 45 minutes for our luggage (which was in the wrong place), we realize that basically the entire airport has shut down. And no one we found could help us at all, including all information services and helplines. After a grand tour of the entire airport at least twice, we finally encounter airport employees who can help us. At 3am. They set us up in a sweet hotel and gave us 5 meals (though we used all 3 of our vouchers for the hotel food on one meal), in addition to a limo ride to and from the airport. Not so bad. After a very late night snack and some great conversation, we took the shady taxi, after some persuasion (the limos had all gone) to our safe haven. After spending the next day walking around in Toronto,which was fun, I am antsy to fly out. Highlights of this adventure include the best cheese spinach soup ever, hearing a real Canadian accent for the first time, having my stuffed bunny, Inca Toll, accidentally go off singing "Making Melodies" 5 times, including while we are checking into the hotel (everyone in the vicinity was intrigued, let me tell you), and finding out that Canada has a $2 coin- how cool is that?