Saturday, October 31, 2009

el motemei porteño

A motemei is a vendor of the cerros of Valparaíso, who sells tortillas and mote de huesillo, a baked bread of some kind. He walks roughly the same route around the hills with his homemade breads, yelling "motemei," keeping alive this old tradition. This is a very porteño tradition, only found in Valparaíso. They surprisingly sell a lot more in the hills than they do in the plan; you won't encounter them in the central plazas.

The man I met while making mosaics is known as "el motemei," or "el motemei porteño." He is well-known for his work, not only as a vendor but apparently for some areas of the fine arts as well. His name is Carlos Martinez. He is very porteño, quite the friendly and energetic spirit of the city. I am as of now unsure if he is the only motemei in the city. He comes from 5 generations of motemeis and amazingly is able to continue this work.

Traditionally a motemei would pass by Ascensor Polanco at midnight, yelling his name and calling his buyers out of their houses. I am not sure if this is still done, but regardless it is awesome. Carlos Martinez and any other existing motemeis have in a very short period of time developed into the stuff of legends in my mind. They are like ghosts of Valpo's hills; you know they pass by but can't always find them, it's a chance encounter, or at least it is for those who don't know where to look. They are living legends of the city's past. I want to find this guy again, talk to him, buy his work. It sounds like I am arranging a drug deal, but I assure you otherwise. I feel like I am seeking a bird of the Amazing basin which exists but more in legend than reality, but that I am the explorer that is going to find it.


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